Dermo-cosmetics Glossary
Dermo-cosmetics Glossary

Ever wonder why there’s allantoin in your moisturizer or why your age-reversing cream contains vitamin E? Consult our dictionary of active ingredients, where you’ll discover everything you ever wanted to know about the properties of your dermo-cosmetic products – from A to Z!


Définition : Hyaluronic acid

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Sodium hyaluronate, glycoaminoglycan.

ORIGIN

Laboratory synthesis.

ACTION MODE

With a very high molecular weight, hyaluronic acid can be injected2 or used topically (in a fragmented form) to penetrate the skin’s barrier. Scientists have also shown that hyaluronic acid plays an important role in the healing and repair of surgical wounds3.

INTERESTING FACT

With a very high molecular weight, hyaluronic acid can be injected2 or used topically (in a fragmented form) to penetrate the skin’s barrier. Scientists have also shown that hyaluronic acid plays an important role in the healing and repair of surgical wounds3.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Avène Eluage Restructuring Anti-aging Cream and Gel, Aderma Épithéliale AH.

Source: www.emedicine.com.
Source: Facial Plast Surg. 2006 May;22(2):140-6.
Source: J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2005 May;19(3):308-18.

Définition : Kojic Acid

SCIENTIFIC NAME

5-hydroxy-2(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one.

ORIGIN

By-product of rice fermentation.

ACTION MODE

Kojic acid inhibits melanin production1, effective in the treatment of pregnancy mask (melasma)2.

INTERESTING FACT

Unstable to air and light, may cause skin irritation.

Source: Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, Août 2002, pages 1045–1048
Source: Dermatological Surgery, Mai 1996, pages 443–447

Définition : Aha – glycolic acid

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Glycolic acid, hydroxyacetic acid.

ORIGIN

Sugar cane, sugar beet. However, 99% of AHAs used in cosmetic products come from laboratory synthesis.

ACTION MODE

In lower concentrations (4% and -), AHAs act as hydration “magnets” (enhance hydration at the superficial layers of the skin). At concentrations greater than 4% and with a proper acid pH (3-4), AHAs can have an exfoliating action by degrading the links that tie cells together.

The most efficient and scientifically proven AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids.

INTERESTING FACT

AHAs may irritate the mucous membranes and skin. It is preferable to gradually build tolerance for AHAs.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Many products from the NeoStrata skin care line.

Définition : Allantoin

SCIENTIFIC NAME

(2,5-Dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl) urea, 5-ureidohydantoine.

ORIGIN

Of natural origin, allantoin is derived from the comfrey plant. It can be synthesized in a laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Allantoin is famous for its hydrating, soothing and anti-irritating properties. It is a potent ingredient, even at lower concentrations (over 0.1%)1.

INTERESTING FACT

Allantoin is used for wound healing, burns and cutaneous ulcers. It aids in cell regeneration and granulation (skin repair step) of the skin2.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Podexine Foot Repair cream, RoC Peel-Ex Micropeeling kit, RoC Calmance Soothing hydrating cream, Avène Cold Cream Body Emulsion, La Roche-Posay Xerand Hand repair cream.

Source: www.iper.net/akema.
Source: www.merck.de.

Définition : Aloe vera

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Aloe barbadensis.

ORIGIN

Derived of plant origin, the aloe vera gel is frequently used for cuts, burns and eczema.

ACTION MODE

Research has shown that aloe vera soothes the skin and reduces inflammation. However, its action in wound healing is still contested in the scientific literature1.

INTERESTING FACT

The aloe vera gel includes the following components: vitamins (mainly vitamins A, C and E), enzymes (such as bradykinase, that helps to alleviate inflammation when topically used) and minerals (calcium, manganese, magnesium, copper, zinc)2.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Many products from the Vichy and A-Derma skincare brands.

Source: Vogler et Ernst, 1999, Farrar, 2005 et Schmidt and Greenspoon, 1991
Source: www.positivehealth.com.

Définition : Alpha bisabolol

SCIENTIFIC NAME

ORIGIN

Derived from plant origin, alpha bisabolol can also be synthesized in a laboratory.

ACTION MODE

When used topically, alpha bisabolol is knowned for its anti-inflammatory properties.

INTERESTING FACT

Alpha bisabolol comes from camomille, a plant that has been used for centuries to fight inflammation. However, recent research has not been able to show the efficacy of alpha bisabolol in reducing cutaneous irritation1.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Many products from the Vichy and A-Derma skincare brands.

Source: Contact Dermatitis. 2006 Sep;55(3):148-54.

Définition : Antioxydants

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Vitamins A, C and E, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone)

ORIGIN

ACTION MODE

Molecules that neutralize free radicals caused by environmental factors (pollution, stress, cigarette smoke, sun exposure) and naturally occuring chemical reactions in the skin.

INTERESTING FACT

Free radicals destroy collagen fibers and other components of the skin. Antioxidants may slow down skin aging by neutralizing free radicals.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Reti-C, La Roche-Posay Active C, NeoStrata Vitamin C 10% Concentrate Total Radiance.
Définition : Argireline

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Acetyl hexapeptide-3.

ORIGIN

Laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Argireline would work by relaxing facial tensions which in turn would lead to a decrease in expression lines and, on a long term basis, a decreased number of fine lines and wrinkles.

INTERESTING FACT

As of 2006, only one study has been published on the efficacy of argireline, and it shows that this peptide is a lot less effective than Botox1.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Jouviance, NuVectin.

Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002.

Définition : Avobenzone

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Methoxydibenzolylmethane, Parsol 1789®.

ORIGIN

Laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Effectively blocks UVA rays.

INTERESTING FACT

Unstable. Stabilized by the addition of octocrylene or Mexoryl SX in the formulation.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Sunscreens include Ombrelle, Vichy, La Roche-Posay, NeoStrata.
Définition : Colloidal oat

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Avena sativa, Avena rhealba, colloidal oat

ORIGIN

From natural origin, oat extract is recommended to soothe symptoms of sensitive skin.

ACTION MODE

Oat, when topically applied to the skin, enhances hydration and alleviates skin irritation1.

INTERESTING FACT

Research has shown that a spray made of water and extract of  Avena rhealba helps with the regeneration of the epidermis and could be useful in wound healing2.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Aveeno skincare line, Dermatological skincare line A-Derma.

Source: Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2002 Mar-Apr;15(2):120-4.
Source: Boisnic S and al., Int J Tissue React. 2005;27(3):83-9.

Définition : Shea butter

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Butyrospermum parkii.

ORIGIN

Derived from natural origin, shea butter is extracted from the fruit of the karite tree, found in Africa.

ACTION MODE

Frequently used in the cosmetic industry, shea butter is recognized for its hydrating and emollient properties1. Frequently used in the cosmetic industry, shea butter is recognized for its hydrating and emollient properties2. Creams and lotions made with shea butter are recommended to help with symptoms of eczema, dry and very dry skin conditions and may help diminish itchiness related to certain skin diseases, such as psoriasis and other dermatitis (skin inflammation).

INTERESTING FACT

Shea butter is recommended to soothes dry, chapped lips.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Physio 5.5 Protecting hydrating milk, Avène Hydrance optimale Riche, Vichy Podexine Dry feet care, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume.

Source: Progressive Lipid Research, January 2003, pages 1-36.
Source: Thioune O. et al., 2000.

Définition : Bha – salicylic acid

SCIENTIFIC NAME

2-hydroxybenzoic acid.

ORIGIN

Laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Promotes exfoliation of the superficial layers of the epidermis, to prevent blockage of the pores. Also enhances collagen production.

INTERESTING FACT

Liposoluble (soluble in oil). Frequently used for acne treatment. Anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial action.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Normaderm Nuit, Vichy Anti-Imperfection Active Concentrate, La Roche-Posay Effaclar K for Oily skin. La Roche-Posay Redermic Daily Fill-in Anti-wrinkle firming care.
Définition : Ceramides

SCIENTIFIC NAME

ORIGIN

Naturally occuring lipids at the epidermis level.

ACTION MODE

Ceramides are necessary for water retention in the skin (hydration), for epidermal cell cohesion and their regulation1. Ceramides enhance the skin’s barrier function.

INTERESTING FACT

Vichy Nutrilogie 1 and 2, Marcelle “New Age” Cleanser and Anti-Wrinkle day care.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS


Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September-October 2001, pages 261–271.

Définition : Coenzyme Q10

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Ubiquinone, ubiquinol.

ORIGIN

Laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Powerful antioxidant, fights free radicals caused by environmental factors, like pollution, cigarette smoke and UV rays.

INTERESTING FACT

Liposoluble (soluble in oil).

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Pureté thermale, Dermaglow Nuvage Anti-wrinkle Treatment with Idebenone.
Définition : Titanium dioxide

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Titanium oxide.

ORIGIN

Mineral, purified in laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Forms a stable physical barrier against UVB rays and, less efficiently, against UVA rays.

INTERESTING FACT

May be used as a pigment or thickening agent on cosmetic formulas. Highly stable and non-irritant for the skin1.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Sunscreen like Ombrelle, Vichy Capital Soleil, La Roche-Posay Anthelios, Avène, RoC Minesol.

Source: Skin Therapy Letter, 1997, volume 2, number 5.

Définition : Escine

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Escine, escinin, horse chestnut.

ORIGIN

Plant.

ACTION MODE

Applied topically, escine relieves venous insufficiency symptoms1, reduces bruising, enhances circulation and decreases oedema (swelling)2.

INTERESTING FACT

Escine helps venous blood drainage, and may improve the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Oligo 25 Yeux.

Source: Pittler MH, Ernst E. Horse chestnut seed extract for chronic venous insufficiency. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2002;(1):CD003230.
Source: Geissbühler, S. and F.H. Degenring. 1999. Treatment of chronic venous insufficiency with Aesculaforce Vein Gel. Schweiz Zschr Ganzheits Medizin 11:82-87

Définition : Grape seed extract

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Polyphenols, flavonoids, proanthocyanidin, catechin, epicatechin.

ORIGIN

Plant, purified in laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Antioxidant having a role in tissue repair. Improves skin’s texture. May also have anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties1.

INTERESTING FACT


EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS


Source: www.pdrhealth.com

Définition : Glycerin

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Glycerol

ORIGIN

Present in all lipids, glycerin may come from animal or plant origin, and it can also be synthesized in a laboratory.

ACTION MODE

By creating a film at the surface of the skin, glycerin helps keep the skin hydrated and aids in the formation of the skin’s natural hydrolipidic film.

INTERESTING FACT

Scientific research suggests the presence of glycerin in the intracellular (between the cells) layers of the skin would help skin lipids perform their function better1.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

The majority of dermatological skincare products contain a certain amount of glycerin.

Source: American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, Sept 2000, pages 165–169.

Définition : Hamamelis

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Hamamelis virginiana.

ORIGIN

Hamamelis is an extract derived from the hamamelis plant, isolated from its leaves and bark.

ACTION MODE

Hamamelis has potent antioxidant properties1 and some beneficial anti-irritant2 and anti-inflammatory properties3.

INTERESTING FACT

Studies have shown that hamamelis would have anti-bacterial properties4.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Normaderm Toner for acne-prone skin.

Source: Phytotherapy Research, Jun 2002, pages 364–367.
Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, Mar-Apr 2002, pages 125–132
Source: Eur J Clin Pharmacol. 1993;44(4):315-8
Source: Forsch Komplementarmed Klass Naturheilkd. 2002 Jun;9(3):153-9.

Définition : Sweet almond oil

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Prunus dulcis.

ORIGIN

Derived from plant origin, sweet almond oil is extracted from the fruit of the almond tree, found in drier regions of Europe and California.

ACTION MODE

Sweet almond oil is used as a moisturizing ingredient in cosmetic formulations and as a vehicle in aromatherapy products1. It does not leave greasy residues when topically applied. Rich in vitamin A, sweet almond oil is recommended for dry, mature skin.

INTERESTING FACT

People allergic to nuts should avoid the topical use of sweet almond oil2.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Anti-Stretch marks Cream, Vichy Nutrilogie1 (for dry skin) and Nutrilogie2 (for very dry skin).

Source: www.drugdigest.org.
Source: www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus.

Définition : Olive oil

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Olea europaea.

ORIGIN

From plant origin, olive oil is extracted from the fruit of the olive tree, usually found by the Mediterranean sea.

ACTION MODE

Olive oil, while having hydrating properties, contains antioxidant molecules (polyphenols, hydroxytyrosol) that helps the skin defend itself against the environment, by neutralizing free radicals caused by pollution and UV rays1.

INTERESTING FACT

Some components of olive oil could have anti-fungal2 and anti-bacterial properties3.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Lipidiose 1, La Roche-Posay Ceralip Lip care, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Surgras.

Source: D'Angelo S et al., Free Radic Biol Med. 2005 Apr 1;38(7):908-19.
Source: Battinelli L et al., Phytomedicine. 2006 Sep;13(8):558-63.
Source: Al-Waili NS., Arch Med Res. 2005 Jan-Feb;36(1):10-3.

Définition : Hydroquinone

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Hydroquinone, 1,4-dihydroxybenzene.

ORIGIN

Decreases the production of melanin (pigment that gives the skin and freckles their color) at the melanocyte level, that translates in a decrease in color of pigmentation spots (freckles, pregnancy mask, solar lentigines).

ACTION MODE

Avoid sun while using a product containing hydroquinone and use a sunscreen on a daily basis.

INTERESTING FACT


EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

NeoStrata HQ.
Définition : Idebenone

SCIENTIFIC NAME

6-(10-hydroxydecyl)2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone).

ORIGIN

Laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Fights free radicals caused by environmental stress (pollution, UV rays, cigarette smoke) that may lead to premature skin aging. Improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as hydration.

INTERESTING FACT

Idebenone is the most effective antioxidant on the market.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Elizabeth Arden/Allergan PREVAGE (Idebenone 0.5%), PREVAGE MD (Idebenone 1%).
Définition : Kaolin

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Kaolinite, white clay, hydrated aluminum silica.

ORIGIN

Mineral.

ACTION MODE

Insoluble in water, kaolin, due to its high absorption capacity1, lowers excess sebum and impurities, leading to a better look and feel of the skin or scalp.

INTERESTING FACT

Kaolin is a clay composed of very fine particles an is often used in the formulation of cosmetic products.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Pureté Thermale Purifying mask, Vichy Normaderm Anti-imperfection mask, Ducray Argéal Sebum-absorbing shampoo.

Source: Dermatology. 1994;189(4):373-7.

Définition : Lha

SCIENTIFIC NAME

lipo-hydroxy acid, 5-N-octanoyl salicylic acid.

ORIGIN

Derived from salicylic acid, LHA is synthesized in a laboratory.

ACTION MODE

This active ingredient has a keratolytic action : it acts on the skin by exfoliating the external layers of the epidermis. It has better exfoliating properties than salicylic acid1.

INTERESTING FACT

LHA is recommended for light to moderate acne cases. Scientists have shown that the use of an LHA-based product diminishes the number of microcomedones2 (precursors of open and closed comedones), leading to fewer acne symptoms. It would also have anti-aging properties3.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

La Roche-Posay Effaclar K, Vichy Normaderm Night Anti-imperfections care, Vichy Normaderm Clear Skin Renovating System.

Source: Dermatology. 1997;194(4):398-401.
Source: Eur J Dermatol. 2003 Jan-Feb;13(1):65-8.
Source: Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 1998 Jan-Feb;11(1):52-6.

Définition : Maganese

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Manganese, Mn.

ORIGIN

Metal.

ACTION MODE

Relaunches cutaneous micro-circulation and brings back skin radiance.

INTERESTING FACT

Manganese is an oligoelement essential to life. The topical use of manganese is contraindicated in cases of rosacea, diffuse redness and dilated capillaries since it prevents the contraction of blood vessels.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Oligo 25 Line (Cleanser, Day care, Eyes, Lips).
Définition : Matrixyl

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Palmitoyl pentapeptide 3.

ORIGIN

Laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Lipopeptide composed of a fatty acid and 5 amino acids (PAL-LYS-THR-THR-LYS SER) that induces dermal repair by stimulating collagen production from the fibroblasts. (collagen I, III et IV, glycoaminoglycans, fibronectin).

INTERESTING FACT

Recommended concentration from Matrixyl’s manufacturer (Sederma): 3 to 8%

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Jouviance and Dermaglow Nuvectin skincare lines, NeoStrata Wrinkle Defense.
Définition : Mexoryl sx

SCIENTIFIC NAME

3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethylidyne)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo(2.2.1)heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid).

ORIGIN

Laboratory.

ACTION MODE

The best chemical filter againt short UVA rays.

INTERESTING FACT

2 forms of Mexoryl are available: SX and XL. Mexoryl stabilises Parsol 1789®. L’Oréal owns the patent on both forms of Mexoryl.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Sunscreens from the l’Oréal Group: Ombrelle, Vichy Capital Soleil et La Roche-Posay Anthélios.
Définition : Nmf

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Natural Moisturizing Factors

ORIGIN

Naturally produced at the epidermis level, the NMF may be reproduced in a laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Attracts and retains water in the superficial layers of the epidermis insuring hydration, radiance and softness to the skin.

INTERESTING FACT

Amongst the NMF, we find: urea, serine, PCA and free carboxylic acids.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Thermal FIX (1, 2, UV, serum, eyes) skincare line.
Définition : Octyl methoxycinnamate

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Octinoxate, Tinosorb.

ORIGIN

Organic

ACTION MODE

Molecule used to block UVB rays (290-320 nm).

INTERESTING FACT


EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Various sunscreens.
Définition : Oxybenzone

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Oxybenzone, benzophénone-3.

ORIGIN

Organic

ACTION MODE


INTERESTING FACT

Used to block UVA and UVB.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Various sunscreens.
Définition : Zinc oxide

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Zinc oxide.

ORIGIN

Mineral.

ACTION MODE

Forms a physical barrier against UVB and UVA rays.

INTERESTING FACT

May be used as a pigment and thickening agent in cosmetic formulas. As with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide is non-irritant for the skin.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Various sunscreens.
Définition : Piroctone olamine

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Ciclopirox, 1-Hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone.

ORIGIN

Synthesized in a laboratory.

ACTION MODE

Soothes the scalp through its anti-irritating action and fights dandruffs with its anti-fungal action1.

INTERESTING FACT


EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Dercos Sensitive scalp shampoo, Ducray Anti-dandruff shampoos, Phyto Phytosylic Shampoo.

Source: Arch Dermatol. 2005 Jan;141(1):47-52

Définition : Retinaldehyde

SCIENTIFIC NAME

ORIGIN

Precursor of retinoic acid (vitamin A acid).

ACTION MODE

Retinaldehyde plays an important role in the regulation of the metabolism of epidermal cells1. It would induce collagen2 and elastin fiber production3 and would reduce the sign of skin aging (wrinkles, fine lines, improvement in skin texture, hyperpigmentation). This molecule is also recommended to improve acne symptoms.oic acid4.

INTERESTING FACT

Retinaldehyde is less irritating and generally better tolerated than retinoic acid.  It would have anti-bacterial properties, which doesn’t seem to be the case with retinol nor retinoic acid4.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Avène Ysthéal+ Cream, Emulsion and Eye care, Avène Eluage Restructuring Anti-aging Cream and Gel, Avène Diacneal.

Source: Dermatology. 1999;199 Suppl 1:37-41.
Source: Int J Tissue React. 2005;27(3):91-9.
Source: Dermatology. 1999;199 Suppl 1:43-8.
Source: Dermatology. 2002;205(2):153-8.

Définition : Sabal serrulata

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Sabal, Serenoa repens, Saw palmetto, palm tree extract.

ORIGIN

Derived from plant, Sabal serrulata is isolated from the fruit of a small palm tree found in North America.

ACTION MODE

Sabal serrulata lowers sebum production by its direct action on sebaceous glands1.

INTERESTING FACT

Sabal serrulata extract would have an anti-hair loss activity2.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Ducray Oily Hair shampoo and treatments, Ducray Anti-Hair Loss shampoo and treatments.

Source: www.nccam.nih.gov.
Source: J Altern Complement Med. 2002 Apr;8(2):143-52.

Définition : Soy

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Soy isoflavones, phytoestrogens, genistein, diazdein.

ORIGIN

Plant.

ACTION MODE

Acts as a powerful antioxidant and as an anti-inflammatory agent1, stimulates collagen production, enhances thickness and elasticity of the skin2.

INTERESTING FACT

The effects of phytoestrogens is enhanced in the presence of vitamin C.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Novadiol, Novadiol Night, Novadiol UV, RoC Soya Unify skincare line.

Source: Cancer Investigation, 1996, volume 14, number 6, pages 597–608.
Source: Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 2002, pages 45–50.

Définition : Selenium sulfide

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Selenium disulfide, selenium sulfide.

ORIGIN

Mineral.

ACTION MODE

Fongistatic action (acts against the fungus responsible of dry and oily dandruffs and Pityriasis versicolor1).

INTERESTING FACT

Recognized by the dermatology community, this anti-fungal active ingredient is usually very well tolerated by the skin2. It is recommended to leave the selenium sulfide-containing product in contact with the skin for a few minutes to maximize its efficacy3.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Dercos Anti-Dandruff shampoo, Ducray Sélégel Anti-dandruff shampoo.

Source: Cutis. 2004 Jun;73(6):425-9.
Source: J Drugs Dermatol. 2004 Jul-Aug;3(4):427-31.
Source: www.emedicine.com.

Définition : Vitamin A

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Retinoid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde

ORIGIN

Vitamin.

ACTION MODE

Improves skin’s structure, effective against the sign of aging (wrinkles, fine lines, texture, hyperpigmentation, etc), and in the treatment of acne.

INTERESTING FACT

Unstable, photosensitizing (enhances sensitivity to sun light), may cause irritation. Use a sun protection on a daily basis when on a vitamin A treatment.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Reti-C Concentrate and Eyes, RoC Retin-OL+ Day, Night, Serum.
Définition : Vitamin B3

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Niacinamide, niacin, nicotinamide.

ORIGIN

Vitamin.

ACTION MODE

Enhances the production of ceramides and free fatty acids, stimulates micro-circulation in the dermis1, improve the appearance of wrinkles, reduces redness2.

INTERESTING FACT

Hydrosoluble (soluble in water), very high stability to light and heat.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

La Roche-Posay Rosaliac Anti-Redness Hydrating Care.

Source: British Journal of Dermatology, September 2000, pages 524–531.
Source: Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 860–865.

Définition : Vitamin B5

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Pantothenic acid, dexpanthenol.

ORIGIN

Vitamin.

ACTION MODE

Efficacy proven for hydration and wound healing1.

INTERESTING FACT


EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Modèle Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Face Treatment.

Source: American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2002, volume 3, number 6, pages 427–433

Définition : Vitamin C

SCIENTIFIC NAME

L-ascorbic acid

ORIGIN

Vitamin.

ACTION MODE

Powerful antioxidant1, decreases the signs of cutaneous aging.

INTERESTING FACT

Products containing L-ascorbic acid may be unstable but this forme of vitamin C is the most potent on the market.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

La Roche-Posay Active C, NeoStrata Vitamin C 10% Concentrate Total Radiance.

Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Février 2002, pages 372–379, et Juin 2001, pages 853–859.

Définition : Vitamin E

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Tocopherol, a-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate.

ORIGIN

Vitamin, vegetable oil.

ACTION MODE

Recognized antioxidant properties1, fights the signs of photoaging.

INTERESTING FACT

Liposoluble vitamin (soluble in oil). There are 8 forms of vitamin E. Alpha-tocopherol and tocotrienols have been shown to be the best against free radicals.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Capital Soleil Cellular Balm, Vichy Podexine Dry Feet cream, Dermaglow Instant Wrinkle Eraser, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume.

Source: Current Problems in Dermatology, 2001, volume 29, pages 26–42.

Définition : Zinc

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Zinc, Zn

ORIGIN

Metal.

ACTION MODE

Zinc has antioxidant, anti-irritant and photoprotecting properties1. It can have anti-acneic properties when combined with an antibiotic, such as erythromycin.

INTERESTING FACT

When taken orally, zinc shows wound healing properties2.

EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS

Vichy Normaderm Night, Vichy Normaderm Anti-Imperfection Care, La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Epidermal Repair.

Source: International Journal of Dermatology, volume 41, number 9, September 2002, pages 606–611.
Source: Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 837–84