Ever wonder why there’s allantoin in your moisturizer or why your age-reversing cream contains vitamin E? Consult our dictionary of active ingredients, where you’ll discover everything you ever wanted to know about the properties of your dermo-cosmetic products – from A to Z!
Aloe vera
Avobenzone
Ceramides
Grape seed extract
Olive oil
Lha
Nmf
Piroctone olamine
Selenium sulfide
Vitamin C
Alpha bisabolol
Colloidal oat
Coenzyme Q10
Glycerin
Hydroquinone
Maganese
Octyl methoxycinnamate
Retinaldehyde
Vitamin A
Vitamin E
Antioxydants
Shea butter
Titanium dioxide
Hamamelis
Idebenone
Matrixyl
Oxybenzone
Sabal serrulata
Vitamin B3
Zinc
Argireline
Bha – salicylic acid
Escine
Sweet almond oil
Kaolin
Mexoryl sx
Zinc oxide
Soy
Vitamin B5
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Sodium hyaluronate, glycoaminoglycan.
ORIGIN
Laboratory synthesis.
ACTION MODE
With a very high molecular weight, hyaluronic acid can be injected2 or used topically (in a fragmented form) to penetrate the skin’s barrier. Scientists have also shown that hyaluronic acid plays an important role in the healing and repair of surgical wounds3.
INTERESTING FACT
With a very high molecular weight, hyaluronic acid can be injected2 or used topically (in a fragmented form) to penetrate the skin’s barrier. Scientists have also shown that hyaluronic acid plays an important role in the healing and repair of surgical wounds3.
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Avène Eluage Restructuring Anti-aging Cream and Gel, Aderma Épithéliale AH.
Source: www.emedicine.com.
Source: Facial Plast Surg. 2006 May;22(2):140-6.
Source: J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2005 May;19(3):308-18.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
5-hydroxy-2(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one.
ORIGIN
By-product of rice fermentation.
ACTION MODE
Kojic acid inhibits melanin production1, effective in the treatment of pregnancy mask (melasma)2.
INTERESTING FACT
Unstable to air and light, may cause skin irritation.
Source: Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, Août 2002, pages 1045–1048
Source: Dermatological Surgery, Mai 1996, pages 443–447
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Glycolic acid, hydroxyacetic acid.
ORIGIN
Sugar cane, sugar beet. However, 99% of AHAs used in cosmetic products come from laboratory synthesis.
ACTION MODE
In lower concentrations (4% and -), AHAs act as hydration “magnets” (enhance hydration at the superficial layers of the skin). At concentrations greater than 4% and with a proper acid pH (3-4), AHAs can have an exfoliating action by degrading the links that tie cells together.
The most efficient and scientifically proven AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids.
INTERESTING FACT
AHAs may irritate the mucous membranes and skin. It is preferable to gradually build tolerance for AHAs.
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Many products from the NeoStrata skin care line.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
(2,5-Dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl) urea, 5-ureidohydantoine.
ORIGIN
Of natural origin, allantoin is derived from the comfrey plant. It can be synthesized in a laboratory.
ACTION MODE
Allantoin is famous for its hydrating, soothing and anti-irritating properties. It is a potent ingredient, even at lower concentrations (over 0.1%)1.
INTERESTING FACT
Allantoin is used for wound healing, burns and cutaneous ulcers. It aids in cell regeneration and granulation (skin repair step) of the skin2.
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Podexine Foot Repair cream, RoC Peel-Ex Micropeeling kit, RoC Calmance Soothing hydrating cream, Avène Cold Cream Body Emulsion, La Roche-Posay Xerand Hand repair cream.
Source: www.iper.net/akema.
Source: www.merck.de.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Aloe barbadensis.
ORIGIN
Derived of plant origin, the aloe vera gel is frequently used for cuts, burns and eczema.ACTION MODE
Research has shown that aloe vera soothes the skin and reduces inflammation. However, its action in wound healing is still contested in the scientific literature1.INTERESTING FACT
The aloe vera gel includes the following components: vitamins (mainly vitamins A, C and E), enzymes (such as bradykinase, that helps to alleviate inflammation when topically used) and minerals (calcium, manganese, magnesium, copper, zinc)2.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Many products from the Vichy and A-Derma skincare brands.
Source: Vogler et Ernst, 1999, Farrar, 2005 et Schmidt and Greenspoon, 1991
Source: www.positivehealth.com.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
ORIGIN
Derived from plant origin, alpha bisabolol can also be synthesized in a laboratory.ACTION MODE
When used topically, alpha bisabolol is knowned for its anti-inflammatory properties.INTERESTING FACT
Alpha bisabolol comes from camomille, a plant that has been used for centuries to fight inflammation. However, recent research has not been able to show the efficacy of alpha bisabolol in reducing cutaneous irritation1.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Many products from the Vichy and A-Derma skincare brands.
Source: Contact Dermatitis. 2006 Sep;55(3):148-54.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Vitamins A, C and E, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone)
ORIGIN
ACTION MODE
Molecules that neutralize free radicals caused by environmental factors (pollution, stress, cigarette smoke, sun exposure) and naturally occuring chemical reactions in the skin.INTERESTING FACT
Free radicals destroy collagen fibers and other components of the skin. Antioxidants may slow down skin aging by neutralizing free radicals.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Reti-C, La Roche-Posay Active C, NeoStrata Vitamin C 10% Concentrate Total Radiance.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Acetyl hexapeptide-3.
ORIGIN
Laboratory.ACTION MODE
Argireline would work by relaxing facial tensions which in turn would lead to a decrease in expression lines and, on a long term basis, a decreased number of fine lines and wrinkles.INTERESTING FACT
As of 2006, only one study has been published on the efficacy of argireline, and it shows that this peptide is a lot less effective than Botox1.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Jouviance, NuVectin.
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Methoxydibenzolylmethane, Parsol 1789®.
ORIGIN
Laboratory.ACTION MODE
Effectively blocks UVA rays.INTERESTING FACT
Unstable. Stabilized by the addition of octocrylene or Mexoryl SX in the formulation.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Sunscreens include Ombrelle, Vichy, La Roche-Posay, NeoStrata.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Avena sativa, Avena rhealba, colloidal oat
ORIGIN
From natural origin, oat extract is recommended to soothe symptoms of sensitive skin.ACTION MODE
Oat, when topically applied to the skin, enhances hydration and alleviates skin irritation1.INTERESTING FACT
Research has shown that a spray made of water and extract of Avena rhealba helps with the regeneration of the epidermis and could be useful in wound healing2.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Aveeno skincare line, Dermatological skincare line A-Derma.
Source: Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2002 Mar-Apr;15(2):120-4.
Source: Boisnic S and al., Int J Tissue React. 2005;27(3):83-9.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Butyrospermum parkii.
ORIGIN
Derived from natural origin, shea butter is extracted from the fruit of the karite tree, found in Africa.ACTION MODE
Frequently used in the cosmetic industry, shea butter is recognized for its hydrating and emollient properties1. Frequently used in the cosmetic industry, shea butter is recognized for its hydrating and emollient properties2. Creams and lotions made with shea butter are recommended to help with symptoms of eczema, dry and very dry skin conditions and may help diminish itchiness related to certain skin diseases, such as psoriasis and other dermatitis (skin inflammation).INTERESTING FACT
Shea butter is recommended to soothes dry, chapped lips.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Physio 5.5 Protecting hydrating milk, Avène Hydrance optimale Riche, Vichy Podexine Dry feet care, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume.
Source: Progressive Lipid Research, January 2003, pages 1-36.
Source: Thioune O. et al., 2000.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
2-hydroxybenzoic acid.
ORIGIN
Laboratory.ACTION MODE
Promotes exfoliation of the superficial layers of the epidermis, to prevent blockage of the pores. Also enhances collagen production.INTERESTING FACT
Liposoluble (soluble in oil). Frequently used for acne treatment. Anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial action.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Normaderm Nuit, Vichy Anti-Imperfection Active Concentrate, La Roche-Posay Effaclar K for Oily skin. La Roche-Posay Redermic Daily Fill-in Anti-wrinkle firming care.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
ORIGIN
Naturally occuring lipids at the epidermis level.ACTION MODE
Ceramides are necessary for water retention in the skin (hydration), for epidermal cell cohesion and their regulation1. Ceramides enhance the skin’s barrier function.INTERESTING FACT
Vichy Nutrilogie 1 and 2, Marcelle “New Age” Cleanser and Anti-Wrinkle day care.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September-October 2001, pages 261–271.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Ubiquinone, ubiquinol.
ORIGIN
Laboratory.ACTION MODE
Powerful antioxidant, fights free radicals caused by environmental factors, like pollution, cigarette smoke and UV rays.INTERESTING FACT
Liposoluble (soluble in oil).EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Pureté thermale, Dermaglow Nuvage Anti-wrinkle Treatment with Idebenone.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Titanium oxide.
ORIGIN
Mineral, purified in laboratory.ACTION MODE
Forms a stable physical barrier against UVB rays and, less efficiently, against UVA rays.INTERESTING FACT
May be used as a pigment or thickening agent on cosmetic formulas. Highly stable and non-irritant for the skin1.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Sunscreen like Ombrelle, Vichy Capital Soleil, La Roche-Posay Anthelios, Avène, RoC Minesol.
Source: Skin Therapy Letter, 1997, volume 2, number 5.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Escine, escinin, horse chestnut.
ORIGIN
Plant.ACTION MODE
Applied topically, escine relieves venous insufficiency symptoms1, reduces bruising, enhances circulation and decreases oedema (swelling)2.INTERESTING FACT
Escine helps venous blood drainage, and may improve the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Oligo 25 Yeux.
Source: Pittler MH, Ernst E. Horse chestnut seed extract for chronic venous insufficiency. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2002;(1):CD003230.
Source: Geissbühler, S. and F.H. Degenring. 1999. Treatment of chronic venous insufficiency with Aesculaforce Vein Gel. Schweiz Zschr Ganzheits Medizin 11:82-87
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Polyphenols, flavonoids, proanthocyanidin, catechin, epicatechin.
ORIGIN
Plant, purified in laboratory.ACTION MODE
Antioxidant having a role in tissue repair. Improves skin’s texture. May also have anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties1.INTERESTING FACT
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Source: www.pdrhealth.com
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Glycerol
ORIGIN
Present in all lipids, glycerin may come from animal or plant origin, and it can also be synthesized in a laboratory.ACTION MODE
By creating a film at the surface of the skin, glycerin helps keep the skin hydrated and aids in the formation of the skin’s natural hydrolipidic film.INTERESTING FACT
Scientific research suggests the presence of glycerin in the intracellular (between the cells) layers of the skin would help skin lipids perform their function better1.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
The majority of dermatological skincare products contain a certain amount of glycerin.
Source: American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, Sept 2000, pages 165–169.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Hamamelis virginiana.
ORIGIN
Hamamelis is an extract derived from the hamamelis plant, isolated from its leaves and bark.ACTION MODE
Hamamelis has potent antioxidant properties1 and some beneficial anti-irritant2 and anti-inflammatory properties3.INTERESTING FACT
Studies have shown that hamamelis would have anti-bacterial properties4.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Normaderm Toner for acne-prone skin.
Source: Phytotherapy Research, Jun 2002, pages 364–367.
Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, Mar-Apr 2002, pages 125–132
Source: Eur J Clin Pharmacol. 1993;44(4):315-8
Source: Forsch Komplementarmed Klass Naturheilkd. 2002 Jun;9(3):153-9.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Prunus dulcis.
ORIGIN
Derived from plant origin, sweet almond oil is extracted from the fruit of the almond tree, found in drier regions of Europe and California.ACTION MODE
Sweet almond oil is used as a moisturizing ingredient in cosmetic formulations and as a vehicle in aromatherapy products1. It does not leave greasy residues when topically applied. Rich in vitamin A, sweet almond oil is recommended for dry, mature skin.INTERESTING FACT
People allergic to nuts should avoid the topical use of sweet almond oil2.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Anti-Stretch marks Cream, Vichy Nutrilogie1 (for dry skin) and Nutrilogie2 (for very dry skin).
Source: www.drugdigest.org.
Source: www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Olea europaea.
ORIGIN
From plant origin, olive oil is extracted from the fruit of the olive tree, usually found by the Mediterranean sea.ACTION MODE
Olive oil, while having hydrating properties, contains antioxidant molecules (polyphenols, hydroxytyrosol) that helps the skin defend itself against the environment, by neutralizing free radicals caused by pollution and UV rays1.INTERESTING FACT
Some components of olive oil could have anti-fungal2 and anti-bacterial properties3.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Lipidiose 1, La Roche-Posay Ceralip Lip care, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Surgras.
Source: D'Angelo S et al., Free Radic Biol Med. 2005 Apr 1;38(7):908-19.
Source: Battinelli L et al., Phytomedicine. 2006 Sep;13(8):558-63.
Source: Al-Waili NS., Arch Med Res. 2005 Jan-Feb;36(1):10-3.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Hydroquinone, 1,4-dihydroxybenzene.
ORIGIN
Decreases the production of melanin (pigment that gives the skin and freckles their color) at the melanocyte level, that translates in a decrease in color of pigmentation spots (freckles, pregnancy mask, solar lentigines).ACTION MODE
Avoid sun while using a product containing hydroquinone and use a sunscreen on a daily basis.INTERESTING FACT
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
NeoStrata HQ.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
6-(10-hydroxydecyl)2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone).
ORIGIN
Laboratory.ACTION MODE
Fights free radicals caused by environmental stress (pollution, UV rays, cigarette smoke) that may lead to premature skin aging. Improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as hydration.INTERESTING FACT
Idebenone is the most effective antioxidant on the market.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Elizabeth Arden/Allergan PREVAGE (Idebenone 0.5%), PREVAGE MD (Idebenone 1%).
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Kaolinite, white clay, hydrated aluminum silica.
ORIGIN
Mineral.ACTION MODE
Insoluble in water, kaolin, due to its high absorption capacity1, lowers excess sebum and impurities, leading to a better look and feel of the skin or scalp.INTERESTING FACT
Kaolin is a clay composed of very fine particles an is often used in the formulation of cosmetic products.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Pureté Thermale Purifying mask, Vichy Normaderm Anti-imperfection mask, Ducray Argéal Sebum-absorbing shampoo.
Source: Dermatology. 1994;189(4):373-7.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
lipo-hydroxy acid, 5-N-octanoyl salicylic acid.
ORIGIN
Derived from salicylic acid, LHA is synthesized in a laboratory.ACTION MODE
This active ingredient has a keratolytic action : it acts on the skin by exfoliating the external layers of the epidermis. It has better exfoliating properties than salicylic acid1.INTERESTING FACT
LHA is recommended for light to moderate acne cases. Scientists have shown that the use of an LHA-based product diminishes the number of microcomedones2 (precursors of open and closed comedones), leading to fewer acne symptoms. It would also have anti-aging properties3.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
La Roche-Posay Effaclar K, Vichy Normaderm Night Anti-imperfections care, Vichy Normaderm Clear Skin Renovating System.
Source: Dermatology. 1997;194(4):398-401.
Source: Eur J Dermatol. 2003 Jan-Feb;13(1):65-8.
Source: Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 1998 Jan-Feb;11(1):52-6.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Manganese, Mn.
ORIGIN
Metal.ACTION MODE
Relaunches cutaneous micro-circulation and brings back skin radiance.INTERESTING FACT
Manganese is an oligoelement essential to life. The topical use of manganese is contraindicated in cases of rosacea, diffuse redness and dilated capillaries since it prevents the contraction of blood vessels.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Oligo 25 Line (Cleanser, Day care, Eyes, Lips).
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Palmitoyl pentapeptide 3.
ORIGIN
Laboratory.ACTION MODE
Lipopeptide composed of a fatty acid and 5 amino acids (PAL-LYS-THR-THR-LYS SER) that induces dermal repair by stimulating collagen production from the fibroblasts. (collagen I, III et IV, glycoaminoglycans, fibronectin).INTERESTING FACT
Recommended concentration from Matrixyl’s manufacturer (Sederma): 3 to 8%EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Jouviance and Dermaglow Nuvectin skincare lines, NeoStrata Wrinkle Defense.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethylidyne)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo(2.2.1)heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid).
ORIGIN
Laboratory.ACTION MODE
The best chemical filter againt short UVA rays.INTERESTING FACT
2 forms of Mexoryl are available: SX and XL. Mexoryl stabilises Parsol 1789®. L’Oréal owns the patent on both forms of Mexoryl.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Sunscreens from the l’Oréal Group: Ombrelle, Vichy Capital Soleil et La Roche-Posay Anthélios.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Natural Moisturizing Factors
ORIGIN
Naturally produced at the epidermis level, the NMF may be reproduced in a laboratory.ACTION MODE
Attracts and retains water in the superficial layers of the epidermis insuring hydration, radiance and softness to the skin.INTERESTING FACT
Amongst the NMF, we find: urea, serine, PCA and free carboxylic acids.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Thermal FIX (1, 2, UV, serum, eyes) skincare line.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Octinoxate, Tinosorb.
ORIGIN
OrganicACTION MODE
Molecule used to block UVB rays (290-320 nm).INTERESTING FACT
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Various sunscreens.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Oxybenzone, benzophénone-3.
ORIGIN
OrganicACTION MODE
INTERESTING FACT
Used to block UVA and UVB.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Various sunscreens.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Zinc oxide.
ORIGIN
Mineral.ACTION MODE
Forms a physical barrier against UVB and UVA rays.INTERESTING FACT
May be used as a pigment and thickening agent in cosmetic formulas. As with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide is non-irritant for the skin.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Various sunscreens.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Ciclopirox, 1-Hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone.
ORIGIN
Synthesized in a laboratory.ACTION MODE
Soothes the scalp through its anti-irritating action and fights dandruffs with its anti-fungal action1.INTERESTING FACT
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Dercos Sensitive scalp shampoo, Ducray Anti-dandruff shampoos, Phyto Phytosylic Shampoo.
Source: Arch Dermatol. 2005 Jan;141(1):47-52
SCIENTIFIC NAME
ORIGIN
Precursor of retinoic acid (vitamin A acid).ACTION MODE
Retinaldehyde plays an important role in the regulation of the metabolism of epidermal cells1. It would induce collagen2 and elastin fiber production3 and would reduce the sign of skin aging (wrinkles, fine lines, improvement in skin texture, hyperpigmentation). This molecule is also recommended to improve acne symptoms.oic acid4.INTERESTING FACT
Retinaldehyde is less irritating and generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. It would have anti-bacterial properties, which doesn’t seem to be the case with retinol nor retinoic acid4.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Avène Ysthéal+ Cream, Emulsion and Eye care, Avène Eluage Restructuring Anti-aging Cream and Gel, Avène Diacneal.
Source: Dermatology. 1999;199 Suppl 1:37-41.
Source: Int J Tissue React. 2005;27(3):91-9.
Source: Dermatology. 1999;199 Suppl 1:43-8.
Source: Dermatology. 2002;205(2):153-8.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Sabal, Serenoa repens, Saw palmetto, palm tree extract.
ORIGIN
Derived from plant, Sabal serrulata is isolated from the fruit of a small palm tree found in North America.ACTION MODE
Sabal serrulata lowers sebum production by its direct action on sebaceous glands1.INTERESTING FACT
Sabal serrulata extract would have an anti-hair loss activity2.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Ducray Oily Hair shampoo and treatments, Ducray Anti-Hair Loss shampoo and treatments.
Source: www.nccam.nih.gov.
Source: J Altern Complement Med. 2002 Apr;8(2):143-52.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Soy isoflavones, phytoestrogens, genistein, diazdein.
ORIGIN
Plant.ACTION MODE
Acts as a powerful antioxidant and as an anti-inflammatory agent1, stimulates collagen production, enhances thickness and elasticity of the skin2.INTERESTING FACT
The effects of phytoestrogens is enhanced in the presence of vitamin C.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Novadiol, Novadiol Night, Novadiol UV, RoC Soya Unify skincare line.
Source: Cancer Investigation, 1996, volume 14, number 6, pages 597–608.
Source: Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 2002, pages 45–50.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Selenium disulfide, selenium sulfide.
ORIGIN
Mineral.ACTION MODE
Fongistatic action (acts against the fungus responsible of dry and oily dandruffs and Pityriasis versicolor1).INTERESTING FACT
Recognized by the dermatology community, this anti-fungal active ingredient is usually very well tolerated by the skin2. It is recommended to leave the selenium sulfide-containing product in contact with the skin for a few minutes to maximize its efficacy3.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Dercos Anti-Dandruff shampoo, Ducray Sélégel Anti-dandruff shampoo.
Source: Cutis. 2004 Jun;73(6):425-9.
Source: J Drugs Dermatol. 2004 Jul-Aug;3(4):427-31.
Source: www.emedicine.com.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Retinoid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde
ORIGIN
Vitamin.ACTION MODE
Improves skin’s structure, effective against the sign of aging (wrinkles, fine lines, texture, hyperpigmentation, etc), and in the treatment of acne.INTERESTING FACT
Unstable, photosensitizing (enhances sensitivity to sun light), may cause irritation. Use a sun protection on a daily basis when on a vitamin A treatment.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Reti-C Concentrate and Eyes, RoC Retin-OL+ Day, Night, Serum.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Niacinamide, niacin, nicotinamide.
ORIGIN
Vitamin.ACTION MODE
Enhances the production of ceramides and free fatty acids, stimulates micro-circulation in the dermis1, improve the appearance of wrinkles, reduces redness2.INTERESTING FACT
Hydrosoluble (soluble in water), very high stability to light and heat.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
La Roche-Posay Rosaliac Anti-Redness Hydrating Care.
Source: British Journal of Dermatology, September 2000, pages 524–531.
Source: Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 860–865.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Pantothenic acid, dexpanthenol.
ORIGIN
Vitamin.ACTION MODE
Efficacy proven for hydration and wound healing1.INTERESTING FACT
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Modèle Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Face Treatment.
Source: American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2002, volume 3, number 6, pages 427–433
SCIENTIFIC NAME
L-ascorbic acid
ORIGIN
Vitamin.ACTION MODE
Powerful antioxidant1, decreases the signs of cutaneous aging.INTERESTING FACT
Products containing L-ascorbic acid may be unstable but this forme of vitamin C is the most potent on the market.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
La Roche-Posay Active C, NeoStrata Vitamin C 10% Concentrate Total Radiance.
Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Février 2002, pages 372–379, et Juin 2001, pages 853–859.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Tocopherol, a-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate.
ORIGIN
Vitamin, vegetable oil.ACTION MODE
Recognized antioxidant properties1, fights the signs of photoaging.INTERESTING FACT
Liposoluble vitamin (soluble in oil). There are 8 forms of vitamin E. Alpha-tocopherol and tocotrienols have been shown to be the best against free radicals.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Capital Soleil Cellular Balm, Vichy Podexine Dry Feet cream, Dermaglow Instant Wrinkle Eraser, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume.
Source: Current Problems in Dermatology, 2001, volume 29, pages 26–42.
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Zinc, Zn
ORIGIN
Metal.ACTION MODE
Zinc has antioxidant, anti-irritant and photoprotecting properties1. It can have anti-acneic properties when combined with an antibiotic, such as erythromycin.INTERESTING FACT
When taken orally, zinc shows wound healing properties2.EXAMPLES OF PRODUCTS
Vichy Normaderm Night, Vichy Normaderm Anti-Imperfection Care, La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Epidermal Repair.
Source: International Journal of Dermatology, volume 41, number 9, September 2002, pages 606–611.
Source: Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 837–84
